Field notes4 min read

A morning with the dhoni captain who refuses GPS

Ibrahim has run the channel between Felidhe and Mulaku for thirty-one years. He reads the surface like a face, and he is right more often than the chart is.

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Correspondence3 min read

On bringing too many books, and other small mercies

In favour of arriving with more reading than you need. The villa is patient. The lagoon is patient.

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Essay7 min read

Twelve hundred islands, and the case for staying on one

A defence of the single-island week. Of refusing the day trip, the snorkel circuit, the manufactured itinerary.

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Portrait5 min read

Adam, who does not write down recipes

The cook at the Hanifaru House has been there nine seasons. We sat with him for an afternoon and learned exactly nothing useful, which felt like the point.

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The map11 min read

A guide to the western channels of Baa

A working chart for members. Where the water lies still in March, where to anchor for an evening swim.

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Long read14 min read

The reef knows when you arrive

On the science of staying put. On how the lagoon settles around a new guest the way a room does — quietly, on its own time.

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